Shingo Ohkawa - Pro Climber - SLC, UT
Let's say that it's been a long winter here in SLC, and that you've been looking forward to finally getting out of town and go climbing in shorts and a t-shirt. You've got the entire week off--the desert is tempting, but the weather there looks iffy, Red Rocks might be OK--but the camping there is, well, bleak... So it's got to be J-Tree--no question!
And let's suppose you fancy yourself sort of a student of climbing history, and there's a proud route in the park, a line first freed in 1977, that Bob Kamps called the EBGBs. You've just recently developed a taste for slab climbing at your new home crag, Little Cottonwood Canyon, and so you're more than confident it'll go, despite its witty, yet foreboding moniker. So there you are, thinking, "Kamps was THE man. I wonder if this line was hand drilled? Man, it's getting warm. These shoes are killing my feet! I should have skied less and trained more in the gym..." And then, just before clipping the last bolt, you blow it, off on a 30 footer--and suddenly, you're wishing you had worn pants, much like the time you thought it would be a good idea to glissade the headwall below the Lower Saddle in your shorts.
So, the point? When you botch the sequence early into a roadtrip, you can either:
A) Go home and learn to slab climb.
B) Go home and only sport climb.
C) Use J-Tree Salve and climb the rest of the week!
photo: Andrew Burr